Jackalope is the Mornington Peninsula’s lap of ultra-modern luxury, a vineyard hotel where guests stay in elegant lairs – not rooms – and “rebellious” sculpture adorns public spaces.

But don’t rush to judgement, expecting its fine-dining restaurant – Doot Doot Doot – to be arty with a capital A. It’s not. Executive chef Guy Stanaway is informed by Jackalope’s high design instincts but his good value five-course menus, changing every eight or so weeks, shrewdly balance cool composition with warm, flavour-forward cooking. John dory fillets, crowned with artichoke curls, benefit from a spice-rich vadouvan sauce while sublime marron basks in a bisque that would make the angels sing.

Nothing is superfluous in a Stanaway dish, every ingredient – many drawn from Doot’s own kitchen garden – designed to beguile the eye or tantalise the tongue. Even the smallest moment, a palate cleanser before dessert, is turned into a little piece of theatre. Skilled staffers, dressed in black, play their parts with panache and can expertly match dishes with a world of wine.

At lunchtime, Doot’s spacious dining room can feel like a business-class lounge. Come sundown, with its ceiling of golden globes in full bling, the place really shines.

Next door is Doot’s country cousin, Rare Hare, an expertly run “food and wine store” where rustic fare – think salumi and sardines on toast, chive waffles and chargrilled squid – lands on communal tables and the cocktails are cool.

Must Eat Dish: Marron, heirloom beans, bisque, soured white onion