Helly Raichura began Enter Via Laundry out of her Box Hill home as an emulation of London’s at-home supper club trend, with the idea of it becoming an Indian fine dining concept all of its own.
With a 15,000-plus waitlist today, we reckon it has. Now in Carlton North, diners can expect a modern interpretation of ancient Indian cuisine, and even more ancient native Australian ingredients.
The meal begins with avocado gabli chat, a mouthful of diced and spiced avocado, dusted with tart Davidson plum powder. A crunchy, charcoal-grilled prawn wrapped in nasturtium leaves is at once bitter, sweet and vegetal. The next series of dishes arrive on a golden Kasa platter.
Masoor dal is anchored in earthy cumin and aromatic chilli, playfully punctuated with pops of desert lime. Perfectly cooked Murray cod sits in a broth of Bengali fish curry (jhol), accompanied by blue oyster and snowflake mushrooms, and spiced apple-like muntries, accenting the broth with aromatic sweetness.
A small but perfectly formed wine list suits the progression of flavours, and there are refreshing cocktails of the alcoholic and sans variety. Raichura is one of the chefs leading Australia’s education in Indian cuisine with detailed insight and joyous flair.
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