And the long-time Northcote fave still lives up to those expectations where it counts – the food. Pickett, behind institutions Matilda and Longrain, launched Estelle more than a decade ago. Now it’s grown to 140 seats, sprawling across three rooms including a wine bar and courtyard. Before setting eyes on the menu, diners will be wowed by the room’s sleek, black and white interior adorned with bold artwork and a thriving open kitchen putting the chefs on show.

Mediterranean and modern Australian flavours play nicely together, perhaps most strikingly with the southern Italian stracciatella and flamelicked sweet peppers, best scooped up via flatbread.

A vibrant zucchini and pumpkin curry is a feast for the eyes and tummy, while meat lovers should make a beeline for the upscale version of meat and three veg. Here perfectly cooked cheek and rostbiff (beef rump) rides alongside kipfler potatoes, creamed spinach and Jerusalem artichokes: it’s near-faultless.

While friendly waiters are attentive, the time between main and dessert could be tightened, although that sticky date pudding with quince and ginger beer granita was worth the wait and caps off a delicious night.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.