The dining room at Felix does more than a stellar job mimicking a traditional French brasserie, with its mosaic floor tiles, starched tablecloths and brass finishings, wood panelling and leather banquettes. And then there’s the classic French fare: a steak tartare of hand-cut beef tenderloin adorned with a free-range egg yolk and prepared tableside with a dousing of mustard, Tabasco and Worcestershire; or a simple earthy dish of marinated and salt-baked shaved ruby beetroots with chevre, discs of radish and tarragon.

But the piece de resistance is the twice-baked Gruyere souffle. An otherwise perfectly pan-fried John Dory served with ribbons of fennel and a watercress sauce, however, reveals an overzealous hand with the salt. All is forgiven though, with the arrival of a classic apple tarte Tatin with a dollop of cinnamon ice cream and Calvados creme fraiche. It’s a big oui from us.

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