Owner/chef Tuoi Do’s rambling gardens at her home are just a skip away from the restaurant in central Tanunda and, lovingly tended by her super greenthumb parents, are the main source of almost every earthy morsel used in the kitchen. And the proteins, sourced from around the district, rarely travel much more.

Then you add the deft touch of Do, who has long been lauded for developing a depth beyond the freshness of traditional Vietnamese food, turning the volume up on every little zing over and above the salty, sweet, spicy, sour and bitter elements. Add to this her restrained punches of umami, most evident in gorgeous plump chicken and mushroom dumplings bobbing in an oh-my-moment broth.

Authenticity reigns, from the bubbly, crisp Hanoi-style spring rolls to cracking pork with a fine rim of crunch. Her squid is steeped in an unusual, unforgettable peppery sauce. Wine-man extraordinaire Grant Dickson remains a supportive figure. His original award-winning “book” of wine endures at fermentAsian and now features drops from his new enterprise, Otherness, one Barossa town away.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.