Along with the theatre of an open kitchen, it means there is plenty to talk about over lunch at Fino, now at home in the winery’s cellar door and courtyard. 

Taking the helm in the kitchen here is former Fino sous chef Daniel Murphy, returned after polishing his talents at notable establishments including eleven, St Hugo and Appellation. The result feels seamless, reflecting the ethos of owners David Swain Sharon Romeo of superb, local ingredients singing for themselves.

Both the a la carte and sharing menus build steadily in size, so if you are yearning for more of the likes of a deliciously meaty lamb croquette garnished with beetroot and labne, hold on. Kingfish crudo, with persimmon and Geraldton wax, is a more delicate and generous starter. 

From the larger serves, four sweet fillets of Coorong mullet feature in a lively plating with leek, oyster mushrooms and romesco, while wagyu brisket is accompanied by sugarloaf cabbage and black vinegar. Crema catalana for dessert is always excellent, or opt for something seasonal such as quince frangipane tart.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.