Just look at Freyja’s trout roe waffle, which became a breakout winner of 2022 in a few short weeks. The lowdown: a plate-sized buttermilk waffle, golden and crimped, with a caviar tin on ice. The lid is popped to reveal fish-egg jewels bedazzling a thick layer of smoked sour cream. It’s pure Instagram bait. It’s also exquisite.

Opened in the gothic Olderfleet building in early June, Freyja has lured top Melbourne chef Jae Bang, formerly of Norway’s two-Michelin-gonged Re-Naa. This is new Nordic with an Australian sensibility.

Buttermilk-sluiced smoked oysters arrive under a cloche that releases a heady aroma of juniper and Geraldton waxflower. Beef tartare dabbed with tarragon cream is punctuated with the tickle of Tasmanian mountain pepper and native quandong. The dining room is inviting in that oh-so-Scandi way, and there’s no dimming the star power of this kitchen that can elevate the humble cauliflower into a main course.

Arrive early for a cocktail fit for a Viking in Freyja’s moody basement bar, Valhalla. Or stick to a wine list celebrating the local and global. Sure, you can shell out some serious coin, but there’s plenty for those on Ikea budgets. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.