While the decor is beginning to take on a well-loved look despite the venue’s strong bones, the kitchen is all-guns blazing with the flavours of the souk running riot in the hands of executive chef Adam Wolfers and head chef Juliette Markovich.

From tiny seafood tarts to a light, hot potato bagel teamed with a spicy muhammara dip forged from walnuts and roasted capsicums, to the drum-beating noise of tender Longreach lamb collar matched with Turkish pepper paste and garlic yoghurt, or roasted crisp-skin Murray cod with almond hummus, the kitchen delivers plate after plate of quality fare. Even the tabbouleh, made here with a broccoli base, black barley and Persian feta, is superior.

Desserts are strong too, with a fennel hot “cake” enhanced by pots of lemon marmalade, creme fraiche and rosella sauce. A by-the-glass offering of 28 wanders the globe like the rest of the quality wine list. Service is laidback and staff get the job done with a side of charm. Diners are still coming for a reason.

To read our full list of reviews for Queensland, head here.