Classic Euro fare inside the grand 1920s-era Cavendish House? Tick. World-class pours and old-world hospo charm? Double tick. But when you think you’ve figured Gimlet out, it goes off script.

Wine by the glass? Try a splash of Mexican or Japanese vino. Beef tartare? It’s prepared tableside with all the drama. Not that hungry? Here’s a half serve.

The expansive dining room has a handsome timber bar anchoring it all. Perch here for a cocktail and quick bite (go the one-bite gnocco fritto, loaded with parmesan custard and draped in melting wagyu bresaola) or settle in for serious long lunching, which may include half a southern rock lobster or grass-fed T-bone thrown over coals.

Head chef Colin Mainds plays to the seasons, perhaps with a tangle of frizzy lettuce, torched figs, salty jamon Iberico with sweet muscat grapes, or a plate of supple King George whiting, plump mussels and sweet baby leeks.

Meringue for dessert? That’s different too, made with brown sugar and served with berries and Jersey milk sorbet that’ll make you see the world a little differently. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.