Hidden in the industrial backstreets of Newstead, this contemporary pan-Asian eatery plays up to its surrounds with an au naturel-style, industrial, warehouse fit-out, warmed up by dangling and potted plants and panels of wood. It is a casually comfortable restaurant well suited to everything from intimate date nights to loud outings with friends. Ensuring its broad appeal is the diverse menu from chef/owner Katrina Ryan, with a pedigree which includes Neil Perry’s Rockpool and playing personal chef to Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman.

There are small plates such as Chinese pancakes replacing duck with slow-cooked lamb, pungent with cumin, medium plates like steamed eggplant with chilli bean sauce and salt and pepper tofu; as well as large plates including Sichuan-spiced half duck with mandarin, miso, black vinegar and star anise. The menu’s detailed descriptions make decisions a challenge, albeit a pleasant one. Though don’t rely on the far too diplomatic, slightly inexperienced staff for help choosing dishes, instead consider opting for one of the well-priced and beyond generous banquets.

Exceedingly well matched to the food is the drinks list, boasting a stellar array of Aussie craft beers (someone clearly knows their stuff here); as well as interesting wines that can stand up to the heat of some dishes.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Chinese pancakes