The restaurant, by ex-Rockpool and Spirit House head chef Katrina Ryan, began life as a cooking school and still runs weekend classes. It is a destination outing for those in the know but equally, it would make a fine pit-stop to recover from shopping in the Bunnings behemoth that has sprung up across the road.

The menu works its way through small, medium and large bites, from bao with crispy fried prawn to a “medium” rich duck leg braised in soy and coconut in red curry sauce with pineapple. Large dishes include crispy-skin barramundi in a fragrant yellow broth, or a deeply flavoured beef cheek in Chinese master stock with son-in-law egg and prik nam pla sauce. House-made roti bread can be well deployed for mopping up duties. Perhaps finish with the likes of steamed pumpkin and coconut custard, candied pepitas, crispy shallots and coconut sorbet.

Banquet menus (including vegan, vegetarian and, unusually, a coeliac option) make this a group-friendly destination, as does the on-the-ball service and extensive drinks list.  

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