From two torched scallops strikingly nestled in a speckled aubergine-hued shell to raw yellowfin tuna elegantly blanketed in a sheet of pickled turnip, every dish from chef Matt Blackwell boasts the composition, skill and sophistication of a true artist.

But these plates aren’t style over substance, at their core are big, bold flavours, leaning heavily into Asian ingredients to amplify seasoning and umami richness. Take sticky braised duck leg, sweet and syrupy from a viscous barbecued plum hoisin. A crispy fried wonton wrapper provides contrasting texture and crunch against the meltingly soft meat, while a kombu emulsion adds deep savouriness.

There are nods to the Middle East and Europe too, with the likes of tender lamb ribs with whipped tahini, or joyously fatty pork collar with a classic madeira sauce and apple remoulade.

Service is whisper quiet, like you’d expect in an art gallery, but well-versed staff know the menu inside out, easily explaining complicated dishes. With the addition of a thoughtfully paired wine list, parochially dotted with Queensland drops, the sunny, river-facing restaurant is made for long lunches.

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