The handsome space beams big New York energy, with dark features and lofty ceilings. Huddle into a clamshell banquette, or sip negronis at the white marble bar for a ringside view of the kitchen.

It’s anchored by a custom-made wood-fire oven, stoked by head chef Douglas Keyte. Arancini are golden orbs of rice and bolognese, served with pea puree and showered in reggiano. Confetti-thin octopus carpaccio is tenderised, bunged in the oven for smoke appeal and then wrapped and steamed for melt-in-your-mouth texture.

Dressed in olive oil, chilli and parsley, it’s a marvel in flavour and technique. Keyte proves his elite steak skills on the Josper grill with black Angus beef eye fillet – it’s a flavoursome, well-treated cut. You’ll need sides, then just add a glass of something Italian, or a bigger Australian red to counter the meat and you’re set. Cocktails take an Italian lens with negronis aplenty, but the restaurant’s refreshing namesake is a must.

End with the apple pie, or tiramisu, whisked out in a massive bowl for a nonna-sized portion to be served tableside. For something special you can’t beat that comfort factor.

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