Newrybar is a quaint historic village by day. At night, all goes quiet except Harvest restaurant, a cosy yet classy dining retreat illuminated amid the trees.

You’re encouraged to be yourself here – grab a friend, a comfy cardi and sip Nebbiolo by the fire, or come for the full degustation experience. The passionate staff are well-versed when it comes to Harvest’s philosophy and menu (which comes with an encyclopaedic foraging glossary).

As well as foraged foods (pandanus, coastal succulents, chickweed), Harvest showcases the region’s best produce, such as Byron Bay pork saddle and Boon Luck Farm carrots. This is standard for Byron Shire, but the Harvest team has been doing it longer than most and their knowledge is deep (they also have a vegetable patch many would be envious of). But don’t think for a minute that they’re set in their ways. The seasonal menu changes every week and is incredibly adventurous.

You’re welcomed with riberry tea and a rich-yet-delicate parmesan biscuit topped with kelp and fennel pollen. Sea plants make frequent appearances, used as seasoning for their natural saltiness. Bolder dishes (crumpet topped with charred mahi mahi and an anchovy doughnut) are brave and intriguing, but not favourites. The spaetzle with bonito butter, however, takes you to textural heaven. Pork belly is tender underneath and crackable on top, while the butter-roasted pear with hazelnut and pandanus wine tastes like the world’s most sublime crumble.

Harvest knows itself, tells a story or two and holds a special place in locals’ hearts.