Having been at the helm for a short while, chef Lilly Trewartha has easily transplanted herself from Hobart to the Byron Bay hinterland. Her menu is an ode to simplicity, with artisanal producers and their ingredients centre stage. Oysters bathed in a zesty finger lime kosho mignonette and farm vegies with decadently creamy fromage blanc provide a model way to start.

If you admire the classics, beef tartare topped with fried Jerusalem artichoke and horseradish will perhaps be the dish of the day, whereas perfectly barbecued squid betwixt fennel and coriander is aromatic, delicate, and hugely satisfying. Finish the occasion with a scrummy – yet caffeine-free – tiramisu brought together with wattleseed and macadamia nut liqueur.

Libations are given serious thought, with wine, beer, and cocktails prudently curated from stellar domestic producers near and far. With a drink in hand, lose an afternoon in their sun-splashed conservatory or take the evening slowly in their kitchen side lounge. Either way, the highly attractive plantation-style venue, a nod to the area’s timber milling past, is serene and rurally chic without trying too hard.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.