Strolling from the carpark to Heide Gallery, through attractive native parklands of she-oaks and red gums and a sign warning of snakes, I can’t believe it’s taken me so long to revisit this suburban paradise.

The Bulleen institution has long been a pilgrimage site for Australian art buffs – John and Sunday Reed lived here, Nolan painted his Ned Kelly series here, and of course there are the galleries – but now there’s good reason for gourmands to head east too. 

The gallery cafe has been reborn as Heide Kitchen, with catering by the capable Mulberry Group (creators of Top Paddock and the oh-so-European Dessous in Melbourne’s CBD).

It occupies the same glass pavilion behind the gallery, with a bluestone terrace backing onto bushland and limestone walls that echo those of neighbouring Reed House, aka Heide Modern. 

We’re settled on the terrace by the most enthusiastic restaurant host I’ve met in ages.

He seems genuinely thrilled that we’ve chosen to lunch at his establishment, despite it already being packed inside and out with lunching ladies and Christmas groups. No wonder I couldn’t get a booking before 1.30pm.

The cocktail list covers just the essentials: spritz, espresso martini and Negroni. Heide Spritz sounds like a Berlin cabaret star but is, in fact, a blend of Lillet Rosé, Aperol and Prosecco. A little tart and served on ice, it’s a refreshing start to a summer lunch. 

The food menu is familiar but not entirely predictable. Asparagus with stracciatella, Mount Zero olives and Cape Grim steak are regularly seen on Melbourne’s menus but rarely as prettily as here. Every plate’s a work of art. 

A charcuterie platter wafts past with generous waves of pink cured meats threatening to break over the side. Tomato bruschetta is a sculptural arrangement of glistening heirloom tomatoes on fancy toast.

Our Scotch eggs arrive halved with soft yolks nestled in meaty shells on a scarlet slick of romesco sauce. Nicely cooked and presented but, we think, under-seasoned. A little salt (there are grinders on each table) makes all the difference.

Crudites come with a dipping bowl of whipped blue cheese dusted in dried nasturtium. The raw vegetables – multi-coloured carrots, radish and meaty snow peas – are pulled straight from the gallery gardens and taste great as they are, but even better with a smear of stinky cheese.

There’s a compact offering of wines by the glass but it’s well-chosen – a McLaren Vale shiraz, an organic sav blanc from Marlborough. All sensibly priced but you can, if you wish, lash out on a premier cru Chablis for $150. 

Fillets of plump white king dory lounge in a light cream sauce spiked with pancetta, fresh peas and wilted cos. Perfect eating on this warm, spring-like day, as is the Niçoise salad, a colourful tumble of all the usual ingredients with the clever addition of endive.

These faintly bitter, crisp leaves complement the buttery kipfler potatoes, briny white anchovy, and semi-dried cherry toms and olives. Never a dull mouthful.

But the standout is the Heide garden risotto, a thing of deep-green beauty. The creamy rice has a richly herbal flavour and intense colour from home-grown spinach and warrigal greens.

There’s a thatch of Parmesan and fennel fronds on top and scattered flowers for extra eye candy. Delicious and light but also, I suspect, good for the health. It certainly lifts my spirits.

Dessert is a selection of baked sweets from the cabinet – croissants, Basque cheesecake, tarts. But given I’m now apparently on a health kick, I couldn’t possibly.

When I ask him for the bill our host-with-the-most surveys our table approvingly and cries, “You ordered all my favourite dishes!”

I bet he says that to all the diners.

Related review: Stokehouse Pasta & Bar brings breezy Italian fare to St Kilda