It’s only fitting to begin your Melbourne foodie pilgrimage at the city’s (if not country’s) finest purveyor of pastry, Lune Croissanterie. An institution dedicated solely to the creation of perfect, perfect croissants, fill yourself with the kind of culinary joie de vivre only its Twice Baked Almond and Pain au Chocolat can bring. And for one of those famous Melbourne brews, head around the corner to Cathedral Coffee. A tiny, hole-in-the-wall cafe in the beautiful art deco Cathedral Arcade, CC’s is where the city’s coolest cats go to caffeinate. Sip a magic (a Melbourne-only order of double ristretto in a three-quarter flat white) under its charming stained glass and lead-light archway, or put a pep in your step with its sassy Cafe Corretto; hot espresso with a side of amaro.

After exploring Melbourne’s labyrinth-like laneways, you’ll no doubt have worked up an appetite. Refuel at Higher Ground — a beautiful red brick building in the CBD with soaring ceilings, arched windows and cascading greenery. The menu offers playful, modern twists on traditional café favourites, like avocado pretzel with whipped ricotta, lime, seed cracker and a poached egg.

The gastronomic holy grail that is Gimlet is where you should stop for a late (and very glamorous) lunch. Andrew McConnell’s shining star marries impeccable service with sensational food, wine and cocktails all within the ritzy, heritage-listed Cavendish House. Go all out and start with their signature Caviar Service, progress to the wood-fired Southern Rock Lobster and dry-aged O’Connor Steak, and finish with the Chocolate torte, rum caramel and cultured cream. Wash it down with a Gimlet, superbly mixed, of course.

Kirk’s Wine Bar straddles two of Melbourne’s most famous CBD streets — Hardware Lane and Little Bourke Street — but it forgoes the tourist cliches of its neighbours. Just the spot for a stylish tipple after shopping and gallery hopping (don’t miss the psychedelic wonder of Yayoi Kusama at the NGV), enjoy a new-world wine at this cosy, decidedly old-world bar.

For dinner, venture to Paris — via Melbourne — with Chris and Sarah Lucas’ latest French masterpiece, Maison Bâtard. Nearly a decade in the making, this sprawling dining and drinking destination sits across four levels in a landmark heritage building, and includes a striking and spirited rooftop terrace and sumptuous, entertainment-filled supper club below. But it’s at the restaurant where the (culinary) magic truly happens. Don’t miss the Omelette de Pommes de Terre (a classic potato omelette topped with Maison Select caviar), Poulet Rôti aux Olives (its signature and spectacular rotisserie chicken with green olives) and the decadent Maison Bâtard Mousse au Chocolat; scooped and served tableside with the kind of liberal unrestraint you’d hope for (given how good it tastes). Paying tribute to Melbourne’s golden era of hospitality through a distinctly French lens, this is undoubtedly the city’s new pièce de résistance.

Continue the high at The Apollo Inn. Capturing Melbourne’s clandestine bar scene but with that classic McConnell aplomb, unlike Gimlet’s fancy facade, this intimate, discreet bar looks unremarkable from the exterior. But behind the lofty, leather-studded door, a dimly lit corridor leads you to another world. Swish yet suitably refined, pick from one of four martinis while you nibble on green olives and a prawn club under the moody light of a few pleated lampshades. If you’re after buzz and city views, however, head to Her. The Tasmin Johnson-designed rooftop bar is full of atmosphere, striking skyline vistas and margaritas on tap, making Her a very fun time.

A new day, a new pastry pit-stop. This time, the shortcrust kind. Try the city’s best tarts at cult icon, Tarts Anon. Headed up by one of the world’s best pastry chefs and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal alumnus, Gareth Whitton, their ever-evolving menu features seasonal sweet and savoury drops each month like Plum and Rosemary, Lamington, and Brillart Savarin, Honey and Fig, along with classics like Plain Old Lemon and their bestselling Chocolate and Caramel.

Time to venture to Melbourne’s food Mecca, “Northside”, and embrace your inner hipster at the painfully cool Napier Quarter. Order their famous Anchovy Toast — lavish layers of mustardy mayonnaise, hard boiled egg, vibrant salsa verde and sexy Olasagasti anchovies — and sit outside by the bluestone under the trees. Or, sip a classic espresso inside at the bar (they don’t do takeaway coffees — now how Melbourne is that?). Otherwise, head to the Abbotsford Convent. You needn’t be religious to enjoy the culinary spoils of this former nunnery, now Australia’s largest arts and culture precinct. Here, you’ll find two excellent dining options (who also happen to be foodie siblings): refined restaurant, Julie, and its casual, rascally brother, Cam’s Kiosk. The latter is an all-day eatery that does a killer brunch like Pancakes with mounds of mascarpone, maple and stewed peach, Sicilian baked eggs or Smoked sardines, spring pickles and cultured butter on sourdough (along with wonderful pasta and funky wines if you happen to linger). Pull up an old pew in its sun-dappled, wooden dining room or sit outside in the leafy cloister courtyard. On your way out, pop by the neighbouring Collingwood Children’s Farm, say hi to the flashy peafowl and take a stroll by the picturesque river.

If you prefer a sambo on-the-go for lunch, try cult favourite Hector’s Deli, where you can choose from stacked toasted, fried or fresh sandwiches (for the vegans, the Salad with spicy chickpea mix is super). Or, drop in at Stefanino Panino at the cool Collingwood Yards for a deli-style sandwich with an Italian spin. Front-runners include the Roma (porchetta, roasted pepper, provolone, rocket and Dijon) and the Bologna (plain or peppercorn mortadella, stracciatella, pickled peppers and olives), both served on classic ciabatta. But at some point, you should make your way to Melbourne’s most stylish strip, Gertrude Street, and that means Marion. Dining at Marion is a Melbourne non-negotiable; the forever-buzzy eatery a culinary institution. Sit outside and soak up the European-style atmosphere (just pray to the weather Gods) while ordering rounds of its cult Fried Bread and Oysters, before the Ribeeye with Shoestring Fries and House Salad. Continue along the tram-lined road and stop in at the recently revamped Gertrude Hotel. A wonderful example of Melbourne’s gastro-pub scene, sit outside with a pot of their specially-made house brew, Gertrude Draught, and lap up the good vibes at this handsome Fitzroy local.

Detour to the charming Rathdowne Village in Carlton North and after perusing its curious and beautiful boutiques (and heavenly bakery Florian), pull up a chair at perennial award winner, Bar Bellamy. This romantic little cocktail bar mixes drinks big in personality, like their Miami Vice. Nuanced and full of technique, the bottom layer features a five rum-blend pina colada base while the top is a masterful take on a strawberry daiquiri. Finish with an apéritif at Gerald’s Bar, a tiny and utterly charming watering hole you’ll most certainly fall in love with.

If the cocktails make you a little idle, there’s plenty of excellent dinner options in Carlton including brilliant newcomer Bistra, the always impeccable Carlton Wine Room and Johnny’s Green Room for delicious pizza on the Tuscan-inspired rooftop. But prepare to have the meal of a lifetime at Minamishima in Richmond. Here, you’ll go on a fine dining journey where Japanese food, as you thought you knew it, has been reimagined. Chef Koichi Minamishima says the ‘shokunin’ philosophy (the pursuit of perfection) is the restaurant’s driving force, and it shows it every single perfect dish.

For a nightcap and midnight snack, head to The Melbourne Supper Club. A city icon, have a champagne at old faithful Siglo and bask in the midnight glow of Parliament from the terrace, or if you’re still peckish, order an Avgolemono or traditional Greek Offal Soup at modern Greek eatery, Kafenion, downstairs. Unlike the rest of Australia’s early closing kitchens, they serve them until 1am — just the thing to finish on before you call it a night at the swanky new Ritz-Carlton Melbourne, the arty Lancemore Crossley Hotel or trendy newcomer, Melbourne Place.