Dining under the watchful gaze of 16 of Greece’s biggest stars including Telly Savalas (Kojak), Cat Stevens and Nana Mouskouri as painted by local artist Shannon Doyle, there’s a sense of playfulness to this Greek eatery. With its textured white walls and heavy timber tables, the sophisticated taverna is buzzy and loud like a lively Greek wedding when busy and surprisingly intimate, despite its great scale, when quiet.

But it’s the food that holds the most appeal here, with classic Greek dishes elevated by only the best of produce.

Diners can choose to keep it light with Greek salad and grilled calamari so tender it’s almost perplexing.

Or opt for hearty and comforting fare, like the avgolemono soup of chicken stock, rice and egg with lemon for zing, or a steaming pan of pastitsio — the Greek answer to lasagne with Wagyu beef layered between pasta and bechamel.

Fish is another star and the crumbed King George whiting speaks of quality and care.

Warm, flaky filo heaving with custard in the bougatsa is the ideal end to the feast.

Combine this with a cracking wine list that celebrates the best of Greek vino alongside drops from around the world and personable, efficient service and Hellenika delivers an enviable taste of the Mediterranean.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): The achingly tender grilled calamari dressed with just lemon juice and olive oil that proves that simplicity is sometimes best