While Hubert and Dan may have been around for a little while now, the café’s following has skyrocketed of late – particularly of an evening, when you absolutely must book otherwise it’s a parmi and chips down the road.

It’s easy to see what all the fuss is about. There’s so much romance behind the place it hurts, starting with its spot smack bang opposite a leafy park on the main drag in Longford. Classically Tasmanian, the town 20 minutes from Launceston has convict connections, antique shops and an iconic bakery.

The love continues inside Hubert and Dan, where high ceilings overlook walls of timber shelves lined with house-made preserves and highland honey, mismatched timber tables, vinyl chairs, floorboards and beavering wait staff in chambray and Nikes.

But the passion is most evident on each plate. Bringing a swag of experience from acclaimed eating establishments to the table, chef and owner Danielle Lefrancois’ style is elegantly simple, fun and filling. Poised close to outstanding Tasmanian produce, Hubert and Dan’s offerings are a particular celebration of what’s so delicious about this state.

Sitting at a tiny round table coated in white linen, a bunch of sage and bone handled cutlery, we pick from a small set dinner menu only offered on Thursdays (otherwise it’s a sensational weekday breakfast and lunch menu including steamed pork buns and house made bagels).

It’s smoked salmon brandade with excellent company in roasted red peppers, olive and sour cucumber for me, and wild mushroom risotto with pickled onions and Persian fetta for her.

Just a touch of blue cheese butter atop Cape Grim eye fillet joins dauphinois potato galette and brussel sprouts. Our other option is sticky pork ribs with baked apple and celeriac puree, almond and pickled broccoflower. It’s a charming demonstration of how to do the dishes we’ve come to recognise really, really well.

The best is saved til last: frangipani sponge caramelised at the final point and served with cardamom ice cream and poached pear. The nod to indulgent, judicious French cuisine can be traced to Danielle’s training beneath Geraud Fabre.

We sip on Henri Quilter chardonnay, Yea Valley pinot noir and finish with a cheeky gin and tonic. The list of refreshments shows off Tassie’s booming cider scene and boasts some tasty imports.

As for crowd, there’s often a stack of mature ladies in pearls and shoulder-draped jumpers, who’ve popped in from the farm for tea and one of Danielle’s exquisite baked treats, plus young tourists passing through and the odd tradie after a locally-roasted coffee to takeaway.

Tonight there’s just us and a pleasant hum of people enjoying a good feed. If it weren’t for the occasional truck of livestock trundling past, we could be in a bistro in Paris.