The heritage-listed building housing Argentinian restaurant The Independent was once an old workshop, timber trusses and roller doors reminders of a bygone time. The polished concrete floor, open kitchen and playground out back were added when executive chef Mauro Callegari bought the place. He has his father’s paintings on the walls, but this roomy restaurant is his own modern masterpiece.

You’ll probably start your Argentinian feast with empanadas – choose from five different fillings – served with lip-smacking yasgua (tomato and capsicum salsa). Soft, zesty scallops are cured moments before being served in lime juice, shallots and chilli, then loaded on to a crunchy cassava cracker.

The baked provolone cheese is drowned in chimichurri to cleverly cut through the richness, while the brisket, which has been brined, dry-rubbed, slow-cooked and grilled, is stupidly tender.

Beer by 2 Brothers and cider is available by the glass or tasting paddle, while Argentinian wines almost outnumber Australian. The tip? Go a fruity, full-bodied Mendoza malbec. The Independent is well worth the drive. After all, it’s cheaper than flying to Argentina. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.