You might know his name from such places as Adelphi, Verge or even est est est, or more recently his face from his venues Izakaya Den or Hihou, but there are not many who have wined and dined in Melbourne over the past two decades who haven’t been served by Simon Denton. He’s the exemplar of hospitality, of service, of style, and Kappo, his latest paean to the beauty of Japan, is the crowing jewel in the triumvirate.

The menu simply lists the 30 odd ever-changing ingredients used to make up the chef’s selection, of which vegetables play a starring role. Perhaps a pickled patch of cauliflower, capsicum and charred baby corn served with a crumbed quail leg; maybe daikon and asparagus ribbons served with a ume (plum) dressing and crowned with parsnip crisps.

But it’s not all veg – a seafood tartare that you DIY with diced prawn, squid, salmon roe and swordfish marinated in miso that’s then topped with seaweed and toasted brown rice is as pretty as it is delicious, while kurobuta pork belly reaffirms this now-ubiquitous cut as something to covet.

The tight wine list, too, is a lesson in crafty construction, with interesting, eclectic surprises for those who are happy to spend, with more than enough good things to drink for modest budgets.

The space is calm and precise, both a function of being a Japanese restaurant, and Simon Denton’s. Kappo is where exacting hospitality and sublime fare combine in multi-coursed glory.

Social feed

Tel: (03) 9639 9500