It’s lucky that the fit-out at chef Ben Bertei’s (ex-SameSame) new venue is rather understated – diners would be at risk of sensory overload if Kiin tried to match the modern Thai menu with a similar visual aesthetic. Instead, the muted colour scheme acts like a visual palate cleanser between playful dishes that are seriously heavy on flavour.

The cream walls and unfinished ceilings are simple and unfussy, and the tables in front of a huge window opening onto Angas Street benefit from a warm summer breeze. But the best seats in the house look straight into an open kitchen that resembles a series of street food stalls thanks to the hibachis, bamboo steamers and woks lined up against the wall. And just about every piece of equipment on display gets used in the Kit Waa tasting menu (one of three on offer).

Forget takeaway staples like pad thai and green papaya salad, or even regional specialities like larb and choo chii. Instead, Bertei ventures far beyond the classics and sees how far he can take those familiar flavours before they become unrecognisable.

A “posh version of Philly cheese and sweet chilli” sees a bundle of creamy
burrata doused in a pungent green nam jim dressing alongside a flaky roti that arrives begging to be torn apart, and the other small plates are even bolder with their seasoning.

Sweetly perfumed lychees are stuffed with prawn and rolled in sugar, salt and chilli then wrapped in betel leaf to create unforgettable flavour bombs and slabs of kingfish crudo breathe new life into the ubiquitous protein with a divine dressing of pickled chilli and watermelon.

Usually, the flavour gets dialled down as the plates increase in size, but Kiin keeps the party going with glutinous pad prik king rice cakes that are dry-cooked in a superheated wok until they’re coated in a rich medley of spices.

At the other end of the spectrum, a yellow curry with charred squid, lime leaf, toasted fennel seed and lemongrass is finished with butter to create a rich, creamy mouthfeel that’s more understated but equally satisfying.

It’s superbly paired with a salad of cucumber pickled in Thai tea, handfuls of fresh herbs and green chillies that cut through the cream and leave the tongue tingling.

The wine list of South Australian and international drops is unsurprisingly heavy on aromatic numbers that won’t compete with the food, and getting Aphelion whiz Rob Mack to provide the house drops is a real coup.

His grenache and chenin blanc are both served on tap, alongside a limoncello spritz spiked with ginger, galangal and lemongrass that could double as a mission statement for the venue. Like everything at Kiin, it’s packed with flavour but well-balanced, showcasing a thorough grasp of the fundamentals and a willingness to experiment.

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