It’s been a long time between evening drinks at Kitchen by Mike CBD but, dare I say, it’s been worth the wait, as the new incarnation “WTF” – a low-key dinner service named after its new opening hours (Wednesday, Thursday and Friday) is really enjoyable.

The website declares it’s Snacks, Fun Natural Wine and Share Food. Don’t be put off if, like me, you are not a fan of what is often called natural wine. Our waitress didn’t like it either and was happy to advise on some great alternatives. Also the wine list is very upfront and clear, divided into MI (minimal intervention/natural wine); S (sustainable practices); VE (vegan) BD (biodynamic); O (organic); SC (skin contact); UFL (unfiltered); UF (unfined) and MS (minimal or no sulphur dioxide). Good thing our waitress knew her stuff. Great to see a list which champions Australian winemakers, brewers and distillers only. There is an impressive list of cocktails, spirits and many wines available by the glass, bottle and also 375ml carafe. How civilised.

Share plates are the way to go with appealing choices from the wood- fired oven and grill as well as other offerings starting from as little as $6 for a salt cod croquette, tomato chilli jam, salsa verde. We need two but still a bargain, mild, soft and creamy inside a crisp breadcrumb crust with a dollop of each of the sauces, the salsa verde working best, the chilli jam lacking kick.

Southern calamari grilled over coals, ‘nduja and ink dressing, lardo (thoughtfully labelled df, gf) is outstanding. Two skewers of tender calamari kissed by the coals and smoky with paprika, spicy ‘nduja oil and squid ink demanded some of Mike’s sourdough bread and Pepe Saya cultured and salted butter.

Given that you’re welcome for a drink, a nibble, or a graze throughout the evening, the menu is divided into Small, Large, Extras and Pudding/Cheese, or “We are happy to order for you – $79 pp”. Twice-baked Willowbrae goat’s cheese souffle is light and cheesy, in a sea of rosemary cream rather than poured over the top prior to the second bake. The top of the souffle is therefore crusted but not dry or overcooked.

Related story: Praise cheesus! Australia’s biggest cheese festival returns 

A classic offering of flank steak bordelaise comes on a warm plate with a perfectly cleaned piece of bone, full of marrow sprinkled with salt and two forks to get it out. Thank you. The sauce is just sticky enough without being cloying. A side of mixed leaves has a rather acidic, salty lemon dressing but that’s probably intentional to cut through the richness of the mains.

A lemon curd tart both surprises and delights, the thinnest disc of crisp pastry dolloped generously with zingy lemon curd then bruleed on top, making it delightfully warm.

Seating is arranged to take advantage of the theatre of the open kitchen and bar. On a chilly night, despite the concrete floor, the room is a perfect temperature. The focus on provenance from NSW or Australian suppliers on the back menu is cheering. The food, the service and the whole experience is relaxed and fun. Not to mention its great CBD location. Seriously, WTF would we do without Kitchen By Mike.