98. Kobo, Sydney

Kobo Buckwheat wrapped mackerel Source: Supplied

Omakase is right now A Thing, enabling Kobo to turn on a great spread in the Japanese way: one small dish at a time.

The friendly and talented chef behind the eight-seat counter is Koreanborn Jacob Lee. In essence, this is a chef show – and as a diner you get to taste everything Lee creates. 

Themes include Jeju Island, South Korea’s largest island and a popular tourist destination. Describing its charms and rich volcanic soils, Lee delivers a culinary tour that starts with a welcome drink of carrot, green mandarin and rosemary oil and lasts just over 90 minutes, peaking with a grand finale main course of pork bossam (poached in broth) with ssamjang (a spicy bean-based chilli paste), or abalone on herbed rice with dipping sauces.

In between are terrific and inventive snacks like a supercrisp seaweed roll topped with wagyu, truffled potato and sea urchin; raw or cured seafood such as blue mackerel with brown butter and pickled ginger; and noodles in an ultra-porky broth (bones and all) topped with some of the best-ever braised and seared pork belly. To finish, there’s green mandarin sorbet with sage oil, and a rich truffle, black sesame and chestnut ice cream. 

Kobo interior Source: Supplied

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4 Loftus St Sydney NSW 2000

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