For starters, take a look at how it presents its sushi. A square of lightly toasted nori seaweed is laid flat like a green handkerchief. The rice, loosely pressed into a rectangular brick, is in the middle, with the seafood or vegetable compositions placed on top. A blast of the blowtorch scorches the delicate edges of fan-cut scallops. Best of all, slices of freshly cut kingfish, blushing like a love-struck teenager, are finished with sake-marinated apple. Fold in the sides of the crisp, seaweed wafer to form a loose bundle, pick it up carefully and munch. 

Kosho was previously the tongue-in-chique French restaurant Cliche and, while the brasserie-style copper-wrapped tables have survived, they are now set with beautifully glazed plates and bowls. The raucous front room and matey service has been toned down a little. But it’s not demure. A revolutionary spirit lives on in the kitchen of Jae Hyun Park. 

Steamed prawn dumplings are plopped on to a dressing that takes a ponzu base (salty, tangy) and spikes it with chilli heat. The prawn tempura includes not only the peeled midriff in an excellent snap-and-crackle batter but also the fried head and undercarriage. Glazed collars of kingfish reward some picking and prodding, while a just-OK piece of sirloin steak is finished with an unctuous miso and garlic butter.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.