The new Catalan-inspired venue invites diners to snack their way through Spain's northeast corner.
While natural wines and small snacky plates have been trending for some time now, a new Catalan-inspired wine bar has just arrived in Redfern to show us how it’s really done.
The new venue comes courtesy of small-bar specialists Matt Swieboda and Nate Hatwell from Love, Tilly Devine, Ragazzi and Dear Sainte Éloise, with executive chef Scott McComas-Williams plus Andrew Taylor and Paul Schulte from Norfolk House.
Named after a barrio in Barcelona’s Gràcia district, La Salut channels the lively neighbourhood wine bars and restaurants that line the trendy Spanish suburb.
Interior architect Sarah Watt has turned The Norfolk’s former sports bar into a slick geometric-inspired space, punctuated by archways and curved shapes in the style of cubist artist Juan Gris. The creaking floorboards have been replaced with crazy paving in neutral shades, which is matched to dome drop lighting and soft stone-coloured walls.
A grand curved bar takes pride of place, and around it diners sit cheek-by-jowl sipping not sangria, but Catalan pét-nat and nibbling paper-thin shavings of jamon Iberico.
The menu invites diners to snack their way through Spain’s northeast corner, with a parade of small plates created by executive chef and co-owner Scott McComas-Williams, formerly of MoVida in Melbourne and Sydney and Els Casals in Catalonia.
Without a proper kitchen, most of the menu revolves around fresh local seafood, cured meats, and delicious things in tins. If you’re not a sharer, that’s OK too. Most items are portioned for one, so you can multiply by the number of diners or double up on your favourite dishes.
Serial snackers will love the salty crackers made by Fabbrica baker Aniruddha Bhosekar, topped with manchego custard and ripe tomato, slicked with a single Cantabrian anchovy. They’re so deliciously moreish you could easily have a dozen.
Croquetas may be a Spanish bar staple, but at La Salut they are no token snack. These crispy, crunchy balls rival the best in Barcelona. Choose from pork belly and kimchi or San Simon and oyster mushroom – both are filled with an oozy bechamel that explodes on first bite.
Pinchos also make an appearance. This Basque game of pick up sticks is won by a skewer of Wessex Saddleback pork neck stacked with marinated garlic and served on a smear of whipped cod roe.
Quails tossed in morcilla crumb is a recipe borrowed from MoVida owner Frank Camorra’s dad. Each half bird is given a crunchy coat to rival the finest fried chicken, with smoky studs of blood sausage that add warming spice and crunch.
If you’re a sucker for Spanish octopus, La Salut serves a black and blistered tentacle in an oily sauce of mildly spiced sobrasada swirled with an earthy chickpea puree.
There’s only one dessert and thankfully it is fantastico. An almond and macadamia tart topped with caramelised peaches is made even more elegant by a floral display of fresh thyme flowers.
In the tradition of the Love Tilly Group, the drinks list does not disappoint. Get ready to say salut over and over again as you work your way through the wine list, which includes more than 250 bottles, primarily of Spanish origin.
The list is divided into three main regions – Atlantic, Continental and Mediterranean – with a focus on rare and unusual vinos, from pét-nat to Penedes – Catalonia’s most prized varietal.
Arrive at aperitivo o’clock for a glass of aromatised Spanish vermút (vermouth). There are 15 varieties to choose from, ranging from lightly spiced to bitter sweet, each served neat with a slice of orange or anchovy stuffed olive.
If you find a vino you love, you can pop next door to the onsite bottle shop, also owned by La Salut, and search for it on the shelves.
As per the Spanish tradition, La Salut stays up late, with dinner bookings available until 10pm, and rumour has it a 3am licence is on the way. Now, that’s how you do it.
Related reviews: A new neighbourhood restaurant by Phil Wood has opened in Paddington
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