Chef Alex Munoz Labart – who undertook part of his apprenticeship on the Coast, and whose wife Karla grew up there – spent years in Sydney stuffing his CV with roles at high-profile restaurants before the couple moved back north last year to go out on their own.

The menu is a single list, moving from smaller to larger dishes that make the most of the restaurant’s charcoal grill and the chef’s classical training.

Produce is sourced as locally as possible, and the wine list is a two-pager with a minimal-intervention focus.

The interior has an elegant, faintly Parisian bistro vibe fashioned from sage green and taupe walls, a tan leather banquette and a mirror-backed bar adjoining the open kitchen.

Local spanner crab, teamed with charred leek and roasted crab broth, is a fine introduction, as are the charred barbecued king prawns coated in prawn butter and scattered with capers and parsley.

Of the larger dishes, barbecue lamb ribs enhanced by vadouvan, smoked yoghurt and crisp curry leaves and bonito beneath a froth of yuzu kosho (a Japanese condiment combining chillies and yuzu citrus fruit zest) butter are terrific.

Finish with popcorn ice cream topped with salted popcorn and teamed with chocolate mousse and hazelnuts.

This is seriously delicious food and service is exceptional.