If you haven’t made the short drive from Hahndorf out to this most picturesque of cellar doors recently, now is a good time to get reacquainted.

A major renovation has upgraded the dining experience considerably. The tastings that used to be in the restaurant now have a dedicated room around the corner. Car parking has moved as well, so the vast panorama out to the Mount Lofty Ranges is no longer compromised.

Alongside these structural changes, long-standing chef James Brinklow’s food is looking better than ever.

Sourdough crumpets are the stuff of breakfast dreams, here served with quality Spanish anchovies to drape across the top.

Ravioli filled with house-made ricotta, caramelised onion and herbs offers more straight-forward pleasure, with a drizzle of brown butter and a few braised radicchio leaves to balance all that dairy richness.

A grilled swordfish steak is magnificent eating, sweet, dense and meaty, with a hint of char, all enhanced by a chunky blood orange and herb salsa, while a bright magenta beetroot puree takes it somewhere else again.

Roasted duck breast also hits the mark with a carrot and orange puree, red wine and star anise reduction, braised endive and a final sprinkle of 100pc cocoa powder. A bitter/sweet symphony, for sure.

These are all dishes that lead inevitably to a discussion about wine. The cool-climate styles made by The Lane fit the bill here but there are also a handful of imported French counterparts to taste alongside them and compare.