While the open kitchen of The Lion is perhaps best known for the spectacle of its spinning rotisseries of pork and scotch fillet, an unlikely player upstages its meats.

The plain-looking fettucine chilli crab is deceiving. In the creamy rendition of this classic, there’s no pomp, no upstanding crab-claw drama, but uncommon depth of flavor in a silky sauce clutching the ribbons of pasta, finished with wine, super subtle hits of chilli, ginger, leek, and many sweet little flakes of crabmeat.

It rounds out the menu at a restaurant which has long given the historic hotel an elegant arm. The room has a softness, in cool colours, fabrics, well-dressed tables and hanging lamps lending romance to the mood (be warned, however, that on weekends, from about nine, the intimacy does dissipate as the adjoining bar’s din ramps up).

Dishes to share include a pork terrine with caperberries and an on-trend dusting of cured yolks. Black bao buns gape widely to house crispy fried barramundi, soundly kicked into moreishness by fermented chilli and a sticky pineapple relish.

The Black Angus scotch fillet is a meaty pleaser, with a delicious jus. And welcome old-school flourishes go into the desserts. The crème brulee, just warm, has a toasty tap-tap toffee top, and a pretty chocolate marquise is adorned with blobs of house-made gooey marshmallow, nicely charred.