Matteo Galletto, wife Dieuwke and sister Michela are running the show, and their new digs have a nautical air with caulked wooden floorboards, white tablecloths, blue and white furnishings and a small selection of the artworks that covered the walls of the Sydney operation, with views across the Noosa River.

The menu starts light with snacks such as oysters or ciabatta with tomato butter; antipasto in the form of octopus carpaccio or cured swordfish loin, or maybe a solid version of fritto misto, and moves on to pastas such taglioni with Fraser Island spanner crab or ravioli of Moreton Bay bug with foie gras and saffron, and larger share plates: fish, prawns, or two types of steak.

Spaghetti tossed with sea urchin cream is appealing and good care is taken with the fish of the day, say, blue eye trevalla enhanced by a rich tomatoey minestrone of fregola, braised fennel and prosciutto pangrattato.

Dessert is limited to lemon myrtle panna cotta with summer fruit or moistly luscious three milk cake. Drinks are delivered promptly from a list that includes local Heads of Noosa Japanese lager and Sunshine and Sons gin, spritzes, four types of negroni and a 200-bottle wine list.

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