And there’s no better warm welcome than being handed a complimentary alcohol-free spritzer of thyme, mint and lemon on arrival.

Then come the snacks, also free and served on furry green moss, including a two-bite mushroom tartlet and crisp artichoke sandwiching a hazelnut and apple-skin puree.

Now you get to make a decision: either the break-the-bank degustation or the more conservatively priced three-course a la carte. Maybe you’ll try the abalone that’s appropriately chewy, bathing in a buttery beurre blanc, before leading into Queensland wagyu beef, lapping in a glossy jus that’s mouth-meltingly good.

As is that nutmeg-spiced olive oil ice cream for dessert. The mod-looking 30- seater gives tables of two the ultimate dinner-and-a-show experience facing the kitchen: you can watch new young chef Diego Huerta Chabert add his final touches to his perfectly plated creations. 

Lumé’s world-class wine list raises a glass to exotic regions, including lesser-known Georgian drops and new-wave styles such as skin-contact whites, or you can leave drinks to the experts and indulge in the pairing hand selected by Lumé’s own sommelier. There’s also zero-proof cocktail pairing for designated drivers.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.