And judging by the stunning $5m dining room, it’s clear she was a woman of taste. The 170-seat corner restaurant has been given a sleek fit-out that blends blush banquettes with neutral floors and walls. Lozenge-shaped light sconces cast a soft glow, or could that just be the aura of Neil Perry? The star chef can be spotted most nights presiding over the pass or working the room, flanked by floor manager (and daughter) Josephine Perry Clift.

Perry’s menu is all about modern Australian fare, but it’s his emphasis on the producer that really stands out. Only the best-of-the-best makes the cut, from Blackmore Wagyu steaks cooked over the coals, to super fresh Bruce Collis seafood, caught just 24 hours before.

Don’t miss the house martini, shaken to perfection and served on an engraved silver tray. The obvious care and attention that has gone into creating a flawless experience, the warmth of the staff and the generosity of the food, will make every guest feel like a member of the family.

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