A neighbourhood wine bar was the logical next step, pouring left-of-field drops from here and abroad in a cosy, moodlit space right next door to Cutler & Co with bottle-lined walls and decent food not far away.

Swing by for a splash of skin-contact pinot gris and oysters, or work through the tricked-up snacks over a long lunch. Start with the elite, garlic-tickled squishy flatbreads swiped in fromage blanc, or salty anchovies draped on fluffy-thick toast soldiers with countering salsa verde.

More tummy-filling eats include pasta which plays to the season’s flavours, or a heaving charred pork chop that cuts like butter and has plenty of fat and salt to keep things juicy. Front-of-house don’t miss a trick, refilling water glasses and clearing plates like super-sleuth ninjas.

They’ll even know to order you dessert, perhaps stewed spiced quinces and a mind-blowing herbaceous bay leaf ice cream, with just a nip of chilled Sauternes to send you on your merry way. Marion is a classy girl-next-door that’s a welcome addition to the Trader House and Fitzroy stable.

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