Owner Flavio Carnevale has brought an Italian accent to Rushcutters Bay since 2012, first with Popolo, showcasing the flavours of Italy’s south, before shifting the menu in a northerly direction to Rome a couple of years ago with the Marta reboot. Though southern born, he’s no stranger to la cucina Romana, having served his apprenticeship in Italy’s capital before moving Sydneyside.

There’s no better way to start here than with the bruschetta, thickly spread with Pepe Saya butter and topped with Sicilian anchovies. Fried globe artichoke, a specialty of Rome’s Jewish quarter, is another standout starter, the leaves crisped till they resemble the petals of a flower, spiked around the tender heart. Among the heartier antipasti, cuttlefish and chickpeas are brought together in a small pool of light tomato broth and topped with croûton-style cubes of fried bread.

We’re in Rome so the cacio e pepe is a must. Here, the emulsified pecorino Romano laced with black pepper clings to house-made tonnarelli, the square-shaped fresh spaghetti found in Lazio, Rome’s home. Look around at the other diners in this packed neighbourhood favourite and you’ll see meat-eaters wielding Flintstone-style lamb tomahawks cross-hatched from the grill, perhaps paired with a side of peas sautéed with guanciale.

Wines are a strong suit here. The all-Italian list has a strong showing from the Lazio region and, on the pricier side, amphora wines, served in custom-made ceramic decanters, get their own section.

If you finish with the sour cherry and ricotta crostata, and you should, pair it with ratafia – cherry kernel liqueur­ – for a true gran finale.