Mary’s Underground. Is it subversive or, you know, under the ground? It’s actually both. 

Jake Smyth and Kenny Graham of the famed burgers have revived the subterranean space once home to legendary live-music venue The Basement and there they’re subverting typical Sydney dining categories with a finely tuned big-night menu and bringing back the music.

A nightly-changing line-up of bands big on jazz, soul and R&B play to diners seated at spotlit tables and high-back stools at the bar, where you can have the entire menu. But first, cocktails.

You could do worse than start with the signature dirty Martini, The Filth & the Fury. Rather than the classic olive brine, the ‘dirty’ comes in the form of bush tomato – infused in the Poor Tom’s gin and skewered with a tiny swatch of melted cheese as the garnish – and the savoury concoction can handily be ordered in generous half or full size. 

Wines are largely local and French, with solid showings from Italy and Germany, a mix that neatly mirrors the European-leaning modern Australian menu. The creative handiwork of Mary’s Group executive chef Jimmy Garside and Smyth, it’s delivered by chef Joel Wootten, late of The Cut Bar & Grill, Rockpool and London’s St John.

From the annexed Clam Bar comes a roll-call of crudo seafood, not least the seafood tower, petit or grand, starring a supersized sea urchin to scoop up with potato crisps in a stellar cast that includes prawns and standout scallops.

Among the entrées on the main carte, tortilla defies expectations, with the integrity of the omelette and discs of potato unswayed by the sauce of swimmer crab and urchin. If it is indeed a big night, the lobster Australienne ($100) served with butter spiked with lemon myrtle and duck-fat fries could be the way to go. Or perhaps a half or whole rôtisserie Maremma duck served with persimmon and anise myrtle.

You won’t go wrong, though, with the Tathra Place saddleback chop, gussied up with koji and made lush with radish butter. Bring on the duck fat pavé if you dare – leaves of potato laminated with duck fat, it’s a winning side.

It’s thrilling stuff. Add the switched-on staff and, whatever the occasion, it’s a wonderful big night out.   

7 Macquarie Pl, marysunderground.com