Matteo Pignatelli’s northside institution ­of almost 30 years oozes old-world charm, while offering a modern look at Aussie cuisine inspired by Italian classics. New head chef Jason Lear, of Di Stasio and Massi pedigree, is well versed in the latter, combining sophistication and tradition regardless of whether you go the a la carte or set menu route.

Golden crisp clubs of taleggio-stuffed zucchini flowers are a gorgeous way to start, while croquettes of confit duck and sauerkraut and a gluggable five-spice sauce win best on plate in the roasted duck stakes.

While you may eye off the chargrilled scotch fillet, live differently and try a slow roasted cauliflower steak instead, which packs an almighty flavour punch and will keep you satisfied until dessert.

Autumn figs are reimagined in a layered honey cake brimming with figs in both caramelised and roasted gelato form – it’s a downright delicious way to end your time at Matteo’s. Even better if you can snare a table in the sun-drenched front room and busy yourself with a glass or two from that rare cult Victorian wine list. A Melbourne classic in every way. 

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