The per-person deposit taken upon booking may be eye-watering but locking in a long lunch here is not something to regret – and, of course, this expense comes off your final bill. Even when Mimi’s is packed, the neutral-clad waitstaff glide attentively through the room, making sure everyone is enjoying the occasion.

Once the caviar trolley arrives, who can resist a “bump”, enjoyed from the back of the hand for optimum temperature with a frozen vodka shot? It’s a fun addition to the experience and has to be tried at least once.

A glass of bubbles alongside oysters with white kampot pepper mignonette feels apt while gazing out at the ocean, and snacks of Abrolhos scallop, squid garum and wasabi; delicate zucchini tartlet, goat’s cheese, lemon, kombu and basil; clever smoked potato and chive pringle; and duck leg pastilla with spiced saltbush get the meal off to a fantastic start.

Grilled Murray cod in a light saffron bourride is delicious alongside smoked potato aioli and a salad leaf bouquet with cucumber vinegar. Shoestring chips are essential. All this with a 2019 Prophet’s Rock pinot gris and you’ll leave very happy indeed. 

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.