Late in 2020 chef Brent Savage and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt made the bold move of shifting their Potts Point wine bar to a lighter, brighter space behind Australia Square. Now, as workers return to the CBD, Monopole is waiting. With the new location came a new menu, including lunch.

Smaller plates with a retro bent – hello, vol-auvents – build to a handful of more substantial mains. To begin, Merimbula oysters are served au naturel with a cheek of lemon, and a crispy, carby sourdough crumpet comes slathered with taramasalata and a flavoursome dusting of bottarga, kombu, chives and cured egg yolk.

At the heftier end, Jack’s Creek striploin with bordelaise sauce and French fries is a classic. Hildebrandt’s exuberant wine list encompasses hundreds of rare and cult drops – particularly French and Australian labels – including 30-plus a day by glass or carafe.

Happy hour offers a punchy snack menu and bottles of NV Louis Roederer Premier Brut for a steal. Come for a post-work Champagne and Comté toastie, and perhaps stay for a steak and glass of something pricey on the corporate account – Monopole means business. 

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