Moo Moo Brisbane is a venue showing signs of a place that’s well loved.

The once bright, avocado armchairs and banquettes are now a little grey around the edges from dirty hands, while pieces of ‘pleather’ flake off chairs running the length of the room that is segregated from the kitchen and bar by a well-stocked wall of wine. The heritage building still retains its charm, but some re-upholstery is in desperate order.

Also displaying evidence of age is the wine list. The bound, bible-like book heroes Bordeaux classics, acclaimed Aussie vino, plus other drops from as far as Lebanon, offering variety at all price points. The choice is a tad overwhelming – so too when it comes to the menu.

While Moo Moo labels itself a steakhouse, culinary options also include charcuterie, seafood, a signature dish and a whopping 15 sides.

Shanghai-style calamari is an easy starter with a slick of ginger-spiked caramel met by delicately battered pieces of tender squid garnished with chilli threads and sprouts.

Pescetarians are taken care of with the market fish – this time kingfish – joined by generous daubs of dill-infused creme fraiche, a frisse salad as well as chip-like pieces of crisp Jerusalem artichoke – though the intensely buttery mash is a little excessive.

But this place is all about the steak – Wagyu, Black Angus, short rib, strip loin. While it would be nice to see more than two grass-fed options on the menu, the 400g pasture-raised, grain-finished rib-eye on the bone from the southern Darling Downs provides a happy medium, lifted by a side of roasted beetroot with goat’s cheese and golden raisins to cut through all the fat.

Moo Moo may not be Brisbane’s best steakhouse, but it does hold its own in a tight pack.