In the case of Moonhouse, it arrives in the form of a Chinese bistro with decidedly retro vibes. Taking up residence in a compellingly curvy Art Deco number, the venue’s striking heritage-listed exterior gives way to a bustling dining room. It’s the kind of smart, dynamic space you want to meet friends in for a well-heeled session.

Drinks are considered, Australian-focused and approachable, so let the good times roll. The food menu is peppered with retro riffs and modern twists. Oysters are topped with zingy ginger and finger lime; steamed, Cantonese-style, with soy, ginger and spring onion; or Kilpatrick, with lap cheong providing the bacony bang for your buck.

Snacks include bouncy, well-seasoned prawn, spread and fried atop a thin crunch of toast, suffused in golden sesame and served with rich prawn bisque sauce for dipping. A generous serve of Murray cod fillet in Shaoxing broth sits on a bed of verdant garlic shoots. The fillet is gorgeously crisp skinned, the flesh glossy, tender and lip-coatingly rich.

A firm coconut-scented soy custard, topped with mandarin, lychee and sorbet, makes a cool, sweetly refreshing end to the meal. 

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