Called Spago, it’s the second outpost from owner and head chef, Eddie Leung, who first launched the concept in Beverly Hills in 2011.

Forget the traditional red, white and green, the new venue has been given a rather eye-catching coat of azure and peach paint, designed to channel the southern Italian coastline.

“We do quite a few modern dishes, so we wanted the venue to have a fresh, contemporary look,” Leung says.

From the Victoria Ave footpath, Spago’s front window reveals a floury spectacle.

Alongside an industrial pasta machine, Leung can be found cutting and twirling a broad range of ribbons, from spaghetti to fettuccine and tagliatelle.

Beyond the humble home cook’s skill level, there’s hand-cut pappardelle tossed in a 16-hour slow-cooked ox cheek ragu and a carbonara alla chittara with guanciale — cured pork jowl, caramelised onion and a smoked egg yolk.

Richer still is the saffron tagliolini with juicy hunks of lobster meat and avruga caviar in a creamy lobster bisque sauce.

Those with creative vision or a fussy temperament can even build their own bowl, with a list of pasta types, sauces and toppings to choose from.

While both the pasta and sauce take hours to prepare, you wouldn’t know it from the snappy pot-to-plate turnaround, which is delivered to the table pronto.

“We’re an express restaurant, so it’s perfect for a quick meal or you can also grab and go,” he said.

If you’re not in a rush, it is also possible to stretch the evening out into a three course affair.

The menu also features antipasto, from cured meats to milky burrata with heirloom tomatoes, rustic Tuscan salad and a mushroom bruschetta, topped with pecorino and truffle salsa. Round off the meal with glossy Italian meringue, tiramisu or a couple of cannolis, also handmade by Leung.

The wine list contains plenty of big bold reds to buddy with your bolognaise, or for something more dramatic there’s the house cocktail, a blue tinged tipple made from vodka, gin and lavender syrup, topped up with butterfly pea flower tea.