But it is a simple bowl of wok-tossed morning glory that really transports you to plastic stools on the streets of Hanoi. Thrown together with a healthy splash of fish sauce, garlic and a nice chilli hit, it is probably the simplest dish on the menu, and also one of the most delicious.

Twice-cooked pork belly is another highlight, its crackle-top crisp and golden, the flesh still moist and juicy. Bite-sized morsels of the meat come with a caramelly tamarind fish sauce and a green apple side salad with pops of coriander, mint and lime to help balance the dish. 

Noi’s interior design is modern and slick but also features a retro-style atrium – yes, it even has a bubbling pond! – that provides some insulation from the traffic on busy Glen Osmond Rd. Plus, it doubles as a market garden for the kitchen – take a look to see bunches of herbs growing right next to your table.

Friendly waiters are well versed in the menu, their bright smiles and helpful suggestions adding to the warm vibe of this welcoming – and packed – dining room. 

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.