Although head chef Jacqui Challinor moved to Melbourne with the opening of NOMAD’s sister restaurant this year, the Sydney original shows no sign of decline. The puffy wood-fired flatbread rivals more famous Sydney versions, the inclusion of Persian lime and wattleseed za’atar contributing in part to this status.

Combine this heaven-sent bread with a selection of charcuterie such as Tathra Place duck mortadella from Wombeyan Caves in NSW and Borrowdale pancetta from the Darling Downs in Queensland and you’re off to a great start.

Zucchini flowers might feel a bit retro but at NOMAD, truffle honey and a very generous grating of pecorino reminds us they remain popular for a reason. The contender for prettiest dish has to be the raw kingfish with a coriander cracker for scooping, avocado, finger lime and colourful edible flowers. For a feast, th

e dry-aged pork cutlet is a theatrical 600g serving, rich and succulent, with pickled radicchio, spiced prunes and pepitas – and, yes, you can take any leftovers home (along with a full belly and the scent of fire).

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.