Hiding behind a humble highway facade, the crisply dressed eatery is perfumed by baking pretzel bread to get the palate party started. Husband and wife, chef Tim and host Shannon Stewart, are in the driver’s seat as foodies are chauffeured through a nimble five-course tasting menu with a side ($89).

Regulars relish the signatures – spanner crab on a toasty bone marrow crumpet with cultured cream and salted egg yolk is the favourite – but should expect to be surprised. Detailed dishes are showcases for Tim’s fascination with foraged and found local produce: bay lobster with carrot, strawberry gum and salty succulent karkalla; local octopus textured with pepita and lemon aspen; and delicate Brisbane Valley quail, persimmon and golden beetroot.

A finale of comte, gruyere and apple on brioche is a cheese toastie you won’t forget in a hurry. Factor in bonus courses along the way as the kitchen crew show off their chops. For diners who take advantage of the paired drinks option, Shannon is equally adept behind the wheel of the interesting wine list. Book well ahead.

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