Nairn’s menu is full of exciting, seasonal dishes, such as smoked ocean trout cigars in wafer-crisp pastry; salmon roe-hatted scallops from Abrolhos Island; and a umami-loaded mushroom tart decorated with a ripple of finely sliced pines.

The grand 100-seater basks in natural light with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Chapel St. Cosy into a leather booth out back or pull up a front-row seat and watch the chefs work their magic in the open kitchen.

You may indulge in the succulently spiced lamb rack resting on yoghurt and sorrel or a pork chop on a bed of sauerkraut, white beans, apple and chorizo dressed in a tangy orange sauce. 

Drinks are plentiful, with a roaming cocktail trolley to tempt you tableside, while switched-on staff are ready to answer any questions. Even Nairn cuts a few laps to check on diners.

A “liquid-centre cheesecake” sticks the landing with a caramelised top, ooey-gooey centre and contrasting passionfruit sorbet. Omnia brings a first-class experience without a ridiculous price tag, making it somewhere you’ll return sooner rather than later. 

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