As you ascend the stairs to this latest newcomer in the recent revival of Italian eateries, the aromas of la vera cucina and the hum of diners enjoying good food is quite the lure.

The first solo venture for chef Regan Porteous (late of Stanton & Co, Tequila Mockingbird), Osteria Coogee is a part bar, part restaurant that also pulls off a homely vibe. More beach house than traditional osteria, it’s light and bright with pretty low-fuss décor, but the service has a lovely casual flair and a tight drinks list that traverses Italy and Australia with a bevy of crowd-pleasing table wines.

With just three offerings per section – starter, entrée, pasta, main, dessert – the menu is succinct, with simple combinations that ensure you can’t go wrong whichever culinary adventure you take.

In the kitchen, head chef Stefano Gagliardi isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel; he’s simply honouring traditional Italian staples with finesse. Beef carpaccio is ethereally thin and garnished with rocket and a parmesan foam. I’m not normally a fan of foams, which are often airy and insipid, but this number not only delivers a punch of parmesan, but also acts as a satisfying sauce.

Textural gnocchi, meanwhile, are served in a creamy slather of porcini and truffle, and new-season mussels arrive on a bed of fregola and calamari in a rich tomato sauce. A quenelle of velvety gorgonzola divides the table on whether it’s needed with a blushingly pink charred wagyu flank. For my part, the meat is stunning on its own and doesn’t need the rich, salty, buttery boost.

There’s no debate, though, on the slab of tiramisù swimming in mascarpone and amaretto – it’s delightfully light. Osteria Coogee continues the boom of genial local Italian, and I suspect it will please residents and seaside tourists alike.