Yes, the pasta-focused menu and drinks list are the same throughout but, depending where you sit, it can have very different personalities.

Take a few steps in from bustling Pirie St and you will bump into the humungous 20m concrete bar that could easily serve as a catwalk for Milan fashion models. Sitting anywhere along or beside this grand expanse, with its moody lighting and suave mixologists, feels totally cosmopolitan – though you wouldn’t dream of drinking one of those, of course, when there are three different negronis.

Head to the back, however, and the room opens up to the arched nooks and vine-covered gazebo that will take you to the heart of your favourite village piazza. The cooking covers both bases.

To start, baby squid tubes, shaped like little bonnets, are all sweet innocence before being slathered in wicked melted nduja, while loaves and fishes come in two variations: smoked kingfish and salsa verde loaded on crostini or the punchier anchovy soldier. A mound of fresh linguine is strewn with small clumps of crabmeat and finished with a light saffron and tomato sauce. Maccheroni tubes partner a rabbit ragu, fresh tarragon and pistachios while hardcore offal heads will be delighted to see the pappardelle with chicken hearts and livers. 

Don’t feel like pasta? Grilled sirloin or fish should have you covered.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.