Eight years after making the transition from topless bar to beloved boozer, it’s now The Tav’s turn to take it all off.

The Petersham pub has been stripped back following a recent renovation by the Odd Culture Group that puts its seedy past on show, while ushering in a delicious new era in the kitchen.

The first thing you’ll notice is that the old bar and stage has been removed to create a large front room, which has been filled up with high tables and leather stools. Distressed surfaces retain that grungy dive bar feel, while portraits of former strippers stare suggestively from the walls.

The famed neon signs of kneeling women have been moved to either side of the exposed back bar, where they illuminate an impressive selection of spirits.

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The drinks list contains more than just the usual Carlton Draught. Like its Newtown sibling Odd Culture, the drinks list has been stocked with a selection of low-fi wines, while somehow keeping the pub prices.

Cocktails tease back to The Tav’s risque past with Rita’s margarita, named after the old Rita’s gambling lounge. Our pick is the A34 Hoedown, a Cottee’s cordial-like concoction, made from Aperol and bloody orange gin, that tastes of summer in a glass. As the weather warms up, you can cool down with a slushie. Two frozen cocktail machines churn out flavours like the Penichillin, an ice-cold whisky whip, as well as the classic Jack Daniels & Coke in frozen form.

Odd Culture Group’s executive chef James MacDonald and head chef John Hockey have swapped up the Southern-style barbecue menu for a more approachable offering of bistro classics. They haven’t retired the old smoker Black Betty just yet. She lives on in the courtyard, supplementing the menu with snacks, like the smoked chicken wings with sweet chilli sauce.

New to the menu are the mussels in fermented chilli butter and the taramasalata with toasted pita bread, but it’s the less showy counter meals that really appeal.

A not-so-humble beef pie is made from house smoked brisket wrapped in golden, buttery pastry. For a support act, there’s silken mash and a rich, flavourful jus masquerading as gravy. The burger is also a solid choice. It’s stuffed with a double sized patty, made from a coarsely ground mince that’s a serious mouthful to eat.

Swing by on Sunday for one of the city’s best roasts. Choose from Berkshire pork belly with crackling, Angus beef rump cap and chicken supreme, served with roast potatoes, carrots and a seriously good Yorkshire pud.

Dancing remains (with clothes on) in the fairy-lit courtyard or underneath the glittering disco ball in the front bar area. A new purpose-built movable stage hosts a roster of performances, including Show Us Ya Tips, a monthly event of dance, tease and exhibitionism that raises money for Sex Workers Outreach Project.

In the next few weeks, the wall between the dive bar and beer garden will be opened up with bi-fold doors to create a refreshed, breezy space inside.

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