Having spent much time rescuing ugly produce and giving it new, delicious life, he developed the concept for Parcs (an anadrome for “scrap”), a 25- seater wine and ferment bar. While the venue may champion a minimal waste approach, the menu is far from minimal when it comes to flavour.

In Yong’s own words: “We want to encourage curious eating. We want our guests to be excited, surprised, confused and, most importantly, have an open mindset.”

Among the piquant dishes are oysters dressed in mango kombucha aged in bees’ wax; Chinese doughnuts with moromi za’atar and smoked sunflower marrow; Buffalo-style mushrooms with a preserved fruit tofu cream and pickled broccolini; and kangaroo with treacle sauce and fermented natives. Yong’s umami e pepe dish has become a signature. 

For dessert, there’s a difficult-to-resist brioche miso ice cream with poached pear, cacao husk and walnut. Ingredients aren’t only given a second chance in Parc’s dishes, but also in the creatively concocted cocktails dreamt up by Darren Leaney, offered alongside a rotating choice of small-batch, minimal intervention wines.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.