While a new owner has taken over, and a few familiar faces are missing from the open kitchen, there’s little sign this will be changing. If anything, the serves seem even more generous. Just look at the massive mound of shredded chicken, banana blossom, soft-boiled eggs and dollops of intense chilli jam. Or the tumble of sizzling hot falafel, roasted cauli, peppers and tahini like a meze banquet in itself.

The pair is among choices on the left side of the blackboard on the far wall that serves as the only menu (some brighter lights would make reading easier). The other column has platters, not plates, filled with creations inspired by either the Southeast Asian or Middle Eastern kitchen, all bristling with herbs, crunchy bits and buckets of flavour.

Sweet-and-sour lamb shoulder, for example, ready to tear apart and load into flatbread pockets. Or a whole fried red snapper buried beneath a landslide of orange segments, crackers, snake beans, lemongrass, shallots and chilli.

You have to feel sorry for the chef responsible for desserts. A peanut butter parfait with caramelised banana sounds wonderful, but requires superhuman capacity.

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